Liposomal Retinol
Appearance: Off-white to pale yellow free-flowing powder (water-dispersible grade) or clear amber liquid (oil-dispersion grade).
Solubility/Dispersibility: Water-dispersible grade forms a stable, uniform dispersion without surfactants; oil grade is miscible with caprylic/capric triglyceride and most emollient esters.
Particle Size (DLS): 100–200 nm, uniform distribution—small enough for follicular and intercellular penetration, large enough to avoid systemic delivery concerns.
Encapsulation Efficiency: ≥ 90% of the retinol payload retained in the lipid vesicle.
Stability: The lipid wall limits light, heat and oxygen exposure that drive retinol isomerization; retains ≥ 90% of label claim after 24 months in unopened, opaque packaging.
Cosmetic Actives | Encapsulated Retinol | Anti-Aging | OEM Available
Description
Liposomal Retinol Powder: Bulk Supply of a Stabilized, Low-Irritation Retinol
Retinol is the most evidence-backed cosmetic active in the anti-aging category, and also one of the hardest to formulate. It isomerizes under light and heat, oxidizes on contact with air, adsorbs onto packaging surfaces, and—at the concentrations consumers actually want—produces the stinging, flaking and redness that make them stop using the product before results appear.
Liposomal Retinol from EmerWell Bio addresses all four failure modes at the ingredient level. We encapsulate cosmetic-grade all-trans retinol in a phospholipid vesicle on the EncapsWell™ platform, producing a 0.1%–1.0% retinol active that disperses in water or oil, releases gradually after application, and keeps its potency through a normal shelf life.
This is a cosmetic ingredient, supplied for topical formulation. If you are looking for an ingestible vitamin A source for supplements, see our Liposomal Vitamin A (retinyl ester) grade instead.
- Reduced Irritation Potential
- Improved Photostability
- Controlled Release
- Water or Oil Dispersible
Why Encapsulation Is the Difference Between a Retinol That Works and One That Sits on the Shelf
The stability problem is chemical, not cosmetic. All-trans retinol has three conjugated double bonds that readily isomerize to 13-cis and 9-cis forms under UV and heat, and oxidize to retinal and retinoic acid derivatives in the presence of oxygen and trace metals. Once that happens, the ingredient is no longer retinol—and the label claim is no longer accurate. A phospholipid bilayer physically separates the molecule from pro-oxidants and limits its exposure to light, which is why encapsulated retinol routinely outperforms free retinol in accelerated stability testing.
Irritation is a release-rate problem. Free retinol arrives at the skin surface all at once. Encapsulated retinol diffuses out of the vesicle over hours, keeping the delivered concentration inside the tolerance window of the stratum corneum while the same total dose reaches the viable epidermis. The clinical outcome is the one formulators want: comparable efficacy with a substantially lower irritation profile, which means higher consumer compliance and fewer returns.
Penetration improves without penetration enhancers. Deformable phospholipid vesicles have been shown in vitro to increase retinol flux through human skin compared with conventional vehicles, by both the intercellular and follicular routes. That allows a lower use level to achieve the same delivered dose—useful when the regulatory ceiling, not the efficacy curve, is the binding constraint.
Technical Specifications of Liposomal Retinol
| Parameter | Specification |
|---|---|
| Active | All-trans retinol (vitamin A alcohol), cosmetic grade |
| CAS Number | 68-26-8 |
| Retinol Content | 0.1%–1.0% (customizable); equivalent to approx. 50,000–500,000 IU/g |
| Appearance | Off-white to pale yellow powder (water-dispersible) / clear amber liquid (oil dispersion) |
| Carrier | Non-hydrogenated soybean or sunflower phospholipids; PEG-free |
| Particle Size (DLS) | 100–200 nm, uniform distribution |
| Encapsulation Efficiency | ≥ 90% |
| Antioxidant System | Tocopherol, ascorbyl palmitate (declared on request) |
| Moisture | ≤ 5.0% (powder grade) |
| Heavy Metals | Pb < 1 ppm; As < 1 ppm; Cd < 0.5 ppm; Hg < 0.1 ppm |
| Microbiology | TPC < 100 cfu/g; yeast & mold < 100 cfu/g; pathogens absent |
| Certifications | cGMP, ISO 9001, ISO 22000, FSSC 22000, HACCP, Kosher, Halal, Non-GMO |
| Packaging | Opaque, nitrogen-flushed foil bags or amber jars: 1 kg sample / 5 kg and 25 kg standard |
Values above are standard manufacturing targets. The binding specification for each lot is stated on its Certificate of Analysis.
Regulatory Notes Formulators Should Know
Retinol is a restricted ingredient in several major markets, and the limits changed recently in the EU. Commission Regulation (EU) 2024/996 sets a maximum of 0.3% retinol equivalent in face and hand leave-on products and 0.05% retinol equivalent in body lotions, applicable from 1 November 2025 with the transitional periods set out in the regulation. Because our encapsulated grades are supplied at 0.1%–1.0% active, the use level in the finished formula—not the raw material concentration—is what determines compliance. Our technical team will calculate the retinol equivalent for your target formula on request.
In the United States, retinol is a permitted cosmetic ingredient; drug claims (for example, treating acne or wrinkles as a disease) require a different regulatory pathway and should be avoided in marketing copy.
Formulation Benefits & Applications
Anti-Aging Serums and Emulsions
The water-dispersible grade can be added to the cool-down phase of an O/W emulsion without a solubilizer, which simplifies the formula and reduces the surfactant load that often drives irritation in retinol products.
Night Creams and Treatment Products
Sustained release makes encapsulated retinol suitable for leave-on night products at the upper end of the permitted range, where free retinol would typically cause unacceptable stinging in sensitive-skin consumers.
Oil-Based and Anhydrous Formats
The oil-dispersion grade is miscible with squalane, jojoba and emollient esters for facial oils, balms and cleansing products where water is absent.
Retinol Pairings
Works alongside niacinamide, ceramides, hyaluronic acid and peptides. We recommend avoiding simultaneous high-dose AHA/BHA in the same formula, and buffering with panthenol or bisabolol if your consumer target skews reactive.
Why EmerWell's Liposomal Retinol Stands Apart
Assayed Active, Not a Nominal Percentage
Retinol content is confirmed by HPLC on every lot, and the encapsulation efficiency is measured—not assumed. Degradation during storage shows up in the COA trend, not in a customer complaint.
Formulator-Ready Delivery Forms
Powder for water-based systems, liquid for anhydrous systems, and a carrier system that is PEG-free and compatible with clean-beauty labeling standards.
EncapsWell™ Platform Consistency
The same particle engineering used across our liposomal range, with batch-to-batch DLS data to prove the distribution has not drifted.
Regulatory Support Built In
We supply the documentation your safety assessor needs: composition, purity, heavy metals, particle size, and retinol-equivalent calculations for EU compliance.
Quality Assurance You Can Verify
- Independent Certificate of Analysis including retinol assay by HPLC
- Encapsulation efficiency and particle size (DLS) report
- 24-month real-time and accelerated stability data
- Heavy metal, microbiological and residual solvent testing
- Non-GMO, vegan and allergen statements
- Opaque, nitrogen-flushed packaging to protect the active in transit
Seamless Integration Into Your Product Line
- Free samples: 100 g–1 kg for stability and sensory trials.
- Customization: retinol concentration, particle size, carrier oil and antioxidant system.
- Documentation: INCI/regulatory package for EU, US and APAC cosmetic filings.
- Response time: 24-hour technical response from our US-based team.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Is this the same as tretinoin?
A: No. This is all-trans retinol, a cosmetic ingredient that converts to retinoic acid in the skin. Tretinoin is a prescription drug and is not supplied by EmerWell.
Q: What retinol concentration should I use in my finished product?
A: It depends on the market and the product type. Under EU Regulation 2024/996, face and hand leave-on products are capped at 0.3% retinol equivalent and body lotions at 0.05%. Tell us your target use level and we will calculate the required inclusion rate of our grade, including the encapsulation loss.
Q: Does encapsulation reduce efficacy?
A: No—it changes the release profile. The same total dose is delivered, but gradually. Published in vitro work on deformable phospholipid vesicles indicates improved retinol flux through human skin versus conventional vehicles, so a lower nominal concentration can deliver a comparable dose.
Q: How should I store and handle the powder?
A: Keep unopened packaging below 25 °C, away from light. Once opened, use within the period stated on the COA and blanket with nitrogen if the container will be held for more than a few days. Add to the cool-down phase below 40 °C.
Q: Is the carrier PEG-free and clean-beauty compatible?
A: Yes. The carrier is non-hydrogenated vegetable phospholipid, PEG-free, Non-GMO and vegan.
Q: Can you supply a retinol grade for ingestible use?
A: For supplements we recommend our Liposomal Vitamin A (retinyl ester) grade, which is more stable in oral dosage forms and better suited to Supplement Facts labeling.
Q: What is the minimum order quantity?
A: 100 g for samples; 1 kg for pilot batches; 5 kg and 25 kg for commercial supply.
Contact Us
Request a sample, COA or retinol-equivalent calculation for Liposomal Retinol at info@emerwell-bio.com. Our team responds within one business day.
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